





This Brighton export is like a Jamie Oliver antipasti board (colourful and rustic) meets Carluccio's (tins stacked high to the ceiling with appealing store cupboard goodies) meets Leon (uncomplicated, wholesome food).
The bright decor, jangling soundtrack and friendly staff meant that even a quiet Wednesday morning felt buzzy in this new Covent Garden restaurant. And what a plum spot - right in the heart of the nice bit of Soho in the smart new St Martin's Courtyard.
The breakfast menu is beautifully written, in that it is simple and inviting.
The bright decor, jangling soundtrack and friendly staff meant that even a quiet Wednesday morning felt buzzy in this new Covent Garden restaurant. And what a plum spot - right in the heart of the nice bit of Soho in the smart new St Martin's Courtyard.
The breakfast menu is beautifully written, in that it is simple and inviting.
There's the essentials for this kind of brunch joint: a fry-up (£7.95), granola (£4.50) and buttermilk pancakes with syrup (£4.95), plus smoothies, teas and coffees.
I went for the more intriguing option of the Bill`s vegetarian breakfast (£7.95), with not a veggie sausage in sight. It was a bright and attractively arranged plate of thick-cut toast, topped with hummus and tomato one one side, guacamole and mushroom on the other, and finished with two perfectly cooked poached eggs and drizzled with sweet chilli sauce.
Despite my dislike of the ubiquitous and somewhat unctuous sweet chilli sauce, I loved it. A filling but not overwhelming portion with plenty of protein, no grease and a rainbow of colour.
My friend had one of the egg/hollandaise concoctions - the classic eggs Benedict (£6.95). Well, classic bar the sprinkled seeds on top. "Adds a good crunch", he said, and the rather pale hollandaise, which he assured me was no less tasty for the pallor.
Despite my dislike of the ubiquitous and somewhat unctuous sweet chilli sauce, I loved it. A filling but not overwhelming portion with plenty of protein, no grease and a rainbow of colour.
My friend had one of the egg/hollandaise concoctions - the classic eggs Benedict (£6.95). Well, classic bar the sprinkled seeds on top. "Adds a good crunch", he said, and the rather pale hollandaise, which he assured me was no less tasty for the pallor.
The only disappointments were the slightly sharp orange, carrot and ginger juice that lacked the sweetness of the former and the spice of the latter, and the coffee. The flat whites were not foamy enough throughout. Delicious, but basically cappuccinos.
This place has "chain" written all over it - which sounds like a criticism, but isn't. They've simply stumbled on a good formula of tasty grub and jolly surroundings. I expect to see more popping up in a London street near you, or Bristol, Bath, Manchester perhaps... watch this space.
Details: Bill's Cafe, Restaurant & Produce Store, St Martin's Courtyard, off Long Acre, London, WC2E 9AB; tel. 0207 240 8183; www.bills-website.co.uk
Open Mon-Weds 8am-11pm; Thurs & Fri 8am-11.30pm; Sat 9am-11.30pm; Sun 9am-10.30pm
Details: Bill's Cafe, Restaurant & Produce Store, St Martin's Courtyard, off Long Acre, London, WC2E 9AB; tel. 0207 240 8183; www.bills-website.co.uk
Open Mon-Weds 8am-11pm; Thurs & Fri 8am-11.30pm; Sat 9am-11.30pm; Sun 9am-10.30pm




























